local flavor
Story By Shaila Creekmore, Photos By Dero Sanford

After more than 90 years of operation in downtown Jonesboro, hordes of hungry customers continue to pack Chef’s In Downtown Cafe each day for some serious southern cooking.

Originally located across the street from the current Burke Avenue location, Downtown Cafeteria has been recorded in the phonebook since at least 1917, according to current owner Imogene Baldwin. During nearly a century of operation, Baldwin said the restaurant has always been said to have served southern style food and she believes it has had as few as four owners in its history.

Baldwin and her husband, Steve, became the most recent owners of the business in December 2000. Prior to buying the restaurant, Baldwin had managed The Griddle that was located on Church Street, but wanted a restaurant where she could make her own southern recipes. That opportunity came when the owner of Downtown Cafeteria approached Baldwin about taking over the restaurant.

After purchasing the restaurant, the Baldwins immediately began serving their own recipes but continued to serve as a cafeteria-style restaurant, plating each meal as the customers moved down the line. Soon, the need for a change became evident.

“The cafeteria style couldn’t handle as many people,” said Baldwin. “Sometimes we would have people lined up out the door.”

A year into operating the restaurant, the Baldwins purchased additional space next to the small restaurant to expand the seating and turn the cafeteria into a buffet. The longtime Downtown Cafeteria changed its name to Chef’s In Downtown Cafe to reflect the change.

“We wanted to go buffet, so we needed to take the cafeteria off,” said Baldwin.
Later the couple bought the remaining space attached to the restaurant. The cafe has quadrupled in size since their initial purchase. That additional space has not only allowed them to add seating, but to expand the food bar.

“We have plenty of seating now and that’s helped a lot,” said Baldwin.

The location and cooking style draws a large and variedcrowd each day who are able to walk from neighboring downtown offices, medical clinics and hospitals or quickly drive in from nearby Riceland, factories or other businesses.

“We get doctors, lawyers, secretaries, nurses, construction workers and a lot of retired people,” said Baldwin. “We get a lot, too, that drive in from the whole surrounding area like Walnut Ridge, Bay, Trumann.”

Chef’s In has a regular crowd of customers who know which day of the week offers their favorite menu on the food bar. “We have a lot of regulars, some who always sit at the same table. We even have some that come in everyday unless they’re sick or out of town,” said Baldwin.

The cafe is open only for lunch Monday through Friday. For $8 including tax, customers get the food buffet, salad bar, dessert bar and drink. Each day, the food buffet features different items including five meat dishes and numerous sides. Favorites throughout the week are meatloaf on Monday, chicken and dumplings on Tuesday, chicken and dressing on Wednesday and firecracker enchiladas on Friday. However, Baldwin describes the restaurant’s most popular items “by far” as fried pork chops and Mexican chicken on Thursday.

“I have to have pork chops and Mexican chicken on the same day because they are the two biggest items. I don’t think we could make enough if they weren’t on the same day,” said Baldwin.

Several vegetables and other side items rotate on the buffet throughout the week alongside several staples. Favorites during the week are sautéed cabbage served on Wednesday, macaroni and cheese served on Tuesday and Friday, and fried potatoes served on Monday and Friday. Homemade mashed potatoes are on the bar throughout the week and is the most popular side item. To meet customer demand, the restaurant prepares approximately 400 pounds of potatoes each week. The Baldwins, each with their own specialties, make all of the food on the buffet each morning. Steve usually starts hismorning around 4:30 preparing for the lunch crowd that starts at 10:30.

Imogene joins him at 6:30, and other than one employee that helps with desserts and breads, the Baldwins spend every morning peeling, cutting, chopping, mixing, beating, cooking and baking.

“It’s all southern home cooked, so it takes time. We peel and mash our own potatoes, we don’t use instant; we fix dried beans rather than canned, things like that,” said Baldwin. “Steve and I make sure we do all the seasoning.”
All the desserts are also made from scratch and are as well liked as anything else served on the buffet. Some of the most popular desserts are chocolate cake, apple dumplings and peanut butter pie. Adding to the popularity of Thursday’s menu are banana pillows, a secret recipe that Baldwin hasn’t even shared with her daughter, Rachel, who also works at the restaurant.

While some days are busier than others, Baldwin said the restaurant has a steady customer base and only on the worst weather days do they have many leftovers when they pull the buffet at 2 each afternoon.

“What a great compliment to our community! I’m so proud,” said Baldwin. “We really appreciate them coming in, being regular customers and being faithful to us.”

Chef’s In Downtown Cafe, 105 Burke Avenue, is open Monday through Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, call 934-8962. To-go plates are also available for $7, and deliveries are offered locally for orders of eight or more.